Etruscan and Roman Umbria
PERUGIA. Programme: in the morning, see two of the six surviving town gates. The Porta Marzia (Gate of Mars) is now part of the XVI century Rocca Paolina Fortress, but it still boasts a fine set of III century b.C. statues surmounting the white stone arch. To the other side of town, the imposing Arco di Augusto (Gate of Augustus) used to mark the northern access to the town. The two grand towers flanking the gate and the original walls , set up without mortar, make of this gate a true must-see.
In the afternoon there are several options. We suggest the visit to the Etruscan Well, located just next to the main fountain square (admission). The well is an amazing work of engineering going back to the III century b.C., still perfectly functioning. After that, a short walk is needed to reach the Archaeological Museum (admission). A large collection of Etruscan artefacts include the Sperandio Sarcophagus, the cippus of Perugia and the bronze pieces once part of a chariot.
ASSISI/SPOLETO. Programme: Next to the Basilicas and the shrines dedicated to Saint Francis, Assisi conceals vast remains dating back to its roman past. The Temple to Minerva dates to the 1st century B.C. It was later turned into a church with a prevalent baroque appearance. The temple stood originally elevated above the Roman area about 3m below the current street level. Underneath is a fascinating museum (admission) comprising remains from the ancient public square and its civic centre. The upper part of Assisi was built on the perimeter of the roman amphitheatre, where today a secluded pink-stone medieval quarter can be admired.
In the afternoon visit to Spoleto's Roman ruins, which include a Roman theatre, still in use during the Spoleto Festival ballets, and an archaeological museum (admission) next door, housing statues and artefacts found locally. There are also two Roman arches visible, the Arco Romano and the Arco di Druso, and a Casa Romana or Roman house (admission) with beautiful mosaics. In the upper part of town the early settlers of Spoleto, the Umbrian people, left some massive walls built in huge polygonal blocks of limestone (IV century b. C.).
Medieval Umbria
Noteworthy, yet rare, are the buildings and monuments from the early
times of the spreading of the Christian faith in Umbria.
The church of San Michele Arcangelo in Perugia is an interesting central-plan building that rose between the 7th and the 8th century. A.D. The sarcophagus inside the Oratorio of San Bernardino is the elaborate work of a 4th century A.D. roman craftsman, already depicting Christian subjects.
The Basilica of San Salvatore in Spoleto is a splendid example of early-Christian
church built using some pre-existing roman material. Not far from Spoleto
is the isolated Tempietto del Clitunno, a quaint, charming Christian place
of worship, long believed to be of roman origin.
Many churches and Cathedrals rose around the first millennium: San Pietro in Perugia, and the Cathedral of San Rufino in Assisi were both built using material from ancient buildings.
Exceptionally well preserved is the 11th century mosaic in the upper part of the tomb of San Giovenale in Narni, depicting a blessing Christ. A rare Longobard marble decorated slab, dating back to the 7th century A.D., mentioning a craftsman “Ursus Magister”, is to be seen in San Pietro in Valle at Ferentillo.
Renaissance in Umbria
PERUGIA/SPELLO. Programme. In the morning the Perugia itinerary will
touch the Rocca Paolina, an underground fortress built in the first half
of the XVI century by taking over an older quarter of the city. On the main
street of Perugia lies the Collegio del Cambio, or former guild of the money
changers, boasting some of Renaissance’s finest frescoes painted by
Perugino, the most prominent artist of the Umbrian school (admission) .
An easy walk leads down to the Oratorio of San Bernardino, a rare XV-century
chapel with sculptures by Donatello’s pupil Agostino di Duccio.
The afternoon is devoted to the visit of Spello, a small town about 30 km
away from Perugia. Inside the church of Santa Maria Maggiore local painter
Pinturicchio left some extraordinary frescoes describing the Infancy of
Christ and dated 1501. Another Pinturicchio’s painting can be found
in the nearby church of St. Andrew.
SPOLETO/MONTEFALCO. Programme. In the Cathedral the apse contains XV-century
charming frescoes by Fra Filippo Lippi depicting scenes from the life of
Mary. The painter’s tomb lies in the church. A tiny chapel in the
same Cathedral has murals by Pinturicchio.
Afternoon. A one-hour ride by bus will take the visitors to Montefalco,
perched on a panoramic hilltop. The Museum of St. Francis, a former church,
is filled with frescoes from the XV and XVI century. In the central apse
Benozzo Gozzoli, a former pupil of Fra Angelico’s, painted the life
of St. Francis; in the nave one finds frescoes by Perugino.
CITTA’ DELLA PIEVE/PANICALE. Programme. In the morning tour of Città
della Pieve will start from the central square, where a plate on a house
marks Perugino’s place of birth. Find the artist’s works inside
the Cathedral, in the church of Santa Maria dei Servi and San Pietro, and
most of all at the Oratorio dei Bianchi. A most touching Nativity is considered
one of his best achievements (admission).
In the afternoon your local guide will show you through Panicale. This small
but charming brick hilltop village reveals unexpected views of the lake.
The Oratorio di San Sebastiano, a few steps away from the town walls, contains
a delicate fresco by Perugino depicting the martyrdom of saint Sebastian,
where the soldiers shooting the arrows move as they were dancing (admission).
